How do you spell controversial? With one of the few split scores ever given by Connoisseurs' Guide. Most tasters loved the power, loved the tightly focused black cherry, slightly dried currant fruit, loved the boldness and the way there is a sense of polish developing in the background, loved the structure that promises to keep the wine going for a couple of decades yet. The dissenting voice questions whether the higher alcohol and the slight bit of stalkiness at the edges will eat into the wine's aging potential. It is still a baby and we are going to wait the better part of the next decade before opening our next bottle.
Restrained for a '99, this wine hides its potential in a youthful cloak of oak and tannin. Cellar this while you're drinking your cult Cabs, and come back to it in 2009. (SH)
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