Ultra Brut, the original no-dosage Champagne, is the name and that’s just how this bone-dry wine tastes. It’s totally crisp, fruity, structured and fresh. Acidity from tight citrus combines with apples and pears to produce a wine that offers both fruitiness and dryness. Like many super-dry Champagnes, it will benefit from some bottle aging, so drink at least six months after purchase. (RV)
The current NV Ultra Brut is a 52% Chardonnay and 48% Pinot Noir blend that is based on the 2007 vintage; it includes – as always – a reserve of the former Ultra Brut vintage, in this case 2004. In fact, the Ultra Brut is produced only every three years on average and the 2007 base is only the twelfth cuvée since the (1976), which was released in 1989. It is citrus-colored and has some very nice white-golden reflections. Bright and fresh on the intensely-flavored brioche nose, this vibrant, round and mouth-filling Champagne reveals a persistent mineral complexity and structure, along with very elegant and refreshing citrus fruit. (SR)
Pale yellow. Racy mineral- and ginger-inflected citrus and orchard fruits on the nose, with a subtle floral nuance adding complexity. On the palate, dry, incisive lime and green apple flavors show an intense, stony character and a touch of smokiness. Becomes fleshier with air and finishes spicy and long, with building citrus fruit character and very good focus. (JR)
A lip-smacking version, with just enough flesh to balance the searing acidity, this features a lacy bead carrying flavors of crunchy green pear, fresh ginger, chalk and lemon zest. Drink now. (AN)
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