Vibrant, this elegant blanc de blancs is driven by a chalky underpinning, with flavors of poached pear, apple blossom and pickled ginger. (AN)
(mostly from 2010, but includes wines from every vintage from 1988 through 2008 except for 1999 and 2003; aged for two years on its lees and disgorged on March 12, 2013): Light gold. Highly perfumed bouquet of yellow apple, pear skin and quinine, with a smoky mineral overtone. Spicy orchard and candied citrus fruit flavors are complemented by notes of sweet butter and anise and gain weight with air. The impressively focused finish shows strong mineral cut and lingering spiciness.
A discreet nose is almost mute and it requires a certain amount of concentration to discern the cool, airy and ultra-elegant wisps of grapefruit, green apple, yeast and hints of brioche. The clean and sleek flavors are supported by an impressively refined effervescence that adds considerably to the sense of elegance on the agreeably dry but not austere finish. As much as I like the style this is not especially complex (though it’s by no means simple) though it would appear to have the ability to age and thus for those who have the patience, this may be more interesting after a few years of cellar time.
Peters' 2010-dominated NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Cuvee de Reserve Disg. 3/2013 - representing the cuvee that makes up more than 60% of his annual production - features juicy apple and white peach, lime and honeydew tinged with the piquancy of their pip and pit; wreathed in gentian and hyacinth; and supplemented by yeast autolysis that shades into notes of roasted peanut and toasted almond. Silken-textured and expansive, yet buoyant and refreshing, this finishes with a predictable underlying sense of oyster shell chalkiness and saliva-liberating salinity as well as a hint of iodine. Bottles from this disgorgement ought to merit attention for several years...as will also, naturally, later disgorgements of this same cuvee.
This wine’s vigorous bubbles carry fresh scents of apples and green pear. It’s dry and crisp, infused with a quinine-like minerality that lasts with the fruit. A wine of breed and refinement, this needs only time to show its multidimensional charms.
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