The “one star” Christoffel 2004 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Auslese* smells alluringly of lemon candy, strawberry jam, black tea, and some elusive musky essences. On the palate, it presents a remarkable display with which fans of Christoffel will not be unfamiliar, wherein a positively egg custard sense of richness, creaminess, and sheer substance still manages to hover lightly over the palate. Layers of fresh and jammy strawberry, citrus and wet stone accumulate weightlessly, then swing into a finish of compelling clarity and length. This comes from an especially spare, rocky soil. While it might not represent the ultimate in complexity or profundity of which this site is capable, it certainly comes close, and is certainly unfathomably delicious. In calling it “essence of Mosel” Christoffel can be accused of self-promotion but is guilty only of the truth. I am tempted, too, to point to its representing an exceptional value - but then again, perhaps not, in view of how quickly a bottle is bound to be emptied. (DS)
A crisp and drier style of auslese, very focused, with an intensity that comes from its structure and finely etched peach and lime notes. It's persistent, ending with a mouthwatering finish. Best from 2008 through 2022.
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