A restrained nose speaks of brioche, green apple, pear and a hint of lemon rind. In much the same fashion as the Rosé the supporting mousse is relatively soft though quite fine and is in keeping with the understated, cool and pure finish that offers excellent complexity on the agreeably dry but not austere finish where the yeast component is quite pronounced. This is lovely and to my taste is drinking perfectly now.
Chiquet’s 2009-dominated NV Brut Tradition Disg. 2/2013 is subtly chalky and smoky as well as evoking roasted peanut, toasted almond, celery seed and marjoram on the nose. The pleasant emphasis on herbal elements – including the aforementioned, all of which reprise on the palate – is doubtless attributable to 40% Meunier, which however is less than the amount Chiquet’s typically accords this “basic” cuvee. (The balance here favors Chardonnay slightly over Pinot.) There is a fresh spinach-like combination of piquant and sweet nuttiness with deep mineral-richness that adds to the interest of this satisfyingly persistent bottling, and its eight grams of residual sugar certainly evoke no overt sweetness. I suspect this will be fascinating to follow for a couple of years.
(45% pinot meunier, 35% chardonnay and 20% pinot noir; mostly 2008 wine, with 15% 2007, 10% 2005 and 4% 2006 wines; disgorged June, 2012): Light yellow-gold. Aromas and flavors of poached pear, anise and honey, with subtle smoke and spun sugar notes in the background. Smooth and open-knit, with good finishing punch and length.
Lightly smoky, with a creamy bead and subtle hints of apple tarte Tatin, licorice and almond financier. Not a blockbuster, but appealingly accessible. Disgorged June 2012. Drink now. (Web-2013)
Gaston Chiquet’s nonvintage offering features a toastiness that testifies to its bottle aging. Along with that feeling of richness, it also contains balanced acidity. Full, crisp and lively, the fresh and fruity aftertaste is delicious.
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