*Three Stars, Wine of the Year in 2008* This year's version of Insignia is a stunning wine that vies for very top honors of the vintage. Its utterly enveloping aromas of perfectly ripe currants, creamy oak and dried violets are followed up in the mouth with wonderfully extracted, carefully proportioned Cabernet flavors that go on and on. The wine is lush yet solidly structured with a fine sense of balance and tannin right where it should be, and, as good as the wine will be in its youth, it will be better yet with age.
The 2005 Proprietary Red Insignia (14.5% alcohol and typically aged 24 months in new French oak) is a blend of 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot and 1% Merlot. Juicy, fresh and vibrant, with a dense, ruby/purple color, and a classic nose of licorice and crème de cassis as well as hints of new saddle leather and earth, the wine is a brilliant blend that after ten years shows no evidence of the 24 months it spent in new French oak. Full-bodied, opulent, but still youthful, this wine looks set for another 25-30 years of aging. The wine’s best elements are its finesse and elegance allied to great richness and intensity. This wine is accessible now, as most Insignias tend to be, but much of its greatness will be revealed over the next two decades. (RP)
*Cellar Selection* This is not a wine for tonight, or next year, or for at least the next six years. It's shut down in tannins, with an astringency that can’t be overcome even with decanting, although that won't stop people from opening it before its time. Buried beneath the tannins are well-developed black currant, roasted meat and cedar flavors that define upscale Napa Cab. Really fine and distinguished, a wine to cellar and enjoy for many years.
For now, it's a sleek wine, with black currant flavors equal to a substantial presence of oak. The tannins are superripe and luxurious; they gain detail with air, becoming more mineral while allowing a fresh scent of roses to come forward. Accessible now for its richness, this will yield more complex pleasures with ten years of age.
Bright ruby-red. Musky aromas of black raspberry, plum, mocha, smoked meat, porcini and underbrush. Plush, thick and quite dry, showing excellent depth and good lift to its flavors of black raspberry, pine needless and cigar box. With aeration, this wine showed a building truffley perfume and substantial tannins. Any early sweetness this wine might have shown has been nicely integrated. (ST)
Smooth, supple and complex, offering wonderful aromas and serving up a range of herb- and mineral-laced currant, black cherry, blackberry, sage and pebble notes. Ends with a clipped edge. (JL)
Rather ridiculous special bottle. Dark crimson. Actually pretty convincing and beautifully knit on the nose. Mellow and rich with balsamic and black olive notes. Very luscious and sumptuous. (JR)
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By: georgedi 2/26/2010
Great Expectations strike again. In my opinion, Insignia tastes far better than Dickens reads but, wow, just what was I looking for? Fireworks? Not here. If there is any such thing as a high end ho-hum meritage, this is it. I have one more bottle. I'll try it again.