The 1995 Cabernet Sauvignon (450 cases produced) is a Bordeaux look-alike, at least aromatically. It exhibits a tobacco leaf, smoky, cedar, and black currant-scented nose, followed by crisp, tart acidity, some austerity, but flavorful, youthful, rich red and black currant fruit. Medium-bodied and spicy, with moderately aggressive tannin in the finish, it needs 4-5 years of cellaring, and should age for 2 decades. Recent vintages have been aged in 100% new French oak casks. (RP)
Dark red color, with a hint of development at the rim. Cooler aromas of currant, mocha and humus; note of nutty herbaceousness (acorn?). Drier and leaner than the above; not quite as ripe as the '96 but boasts a penetrating flavor. Finishes with a note of tobacco and firm but not excessive acidity. The '94 Moraga, retasted twice in recent months, remains the best release to date, combining Graves and Pauillac characteristics (camphor, tobacco, sappy black cherry, mulberry and woodsmoke) and showing a velvety texture and mellow tannins more akin to claret than California cabernet. (ST)
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