Good deep red. Musky strawberry, blackberry, violet and sexy oak on the nose. Superripe and deep but youthfully backward, showing more cedar and tobacco and less flowers than the Ginestra. A big, rich, chewy wine that's currently showing more oakiness in the middle palate and wood tannins on the finish than the Ginestra. Seems almost old-fashioned in the context of this producer's wines. Incidentally, although Conterno replanted half of the vineyard in 1998, this 2004 was made from only the old vines. The Ginestra may well be tastable early for its sheer sex appeal but this bottle will require aging. (ST) 94+
Fabulous aromas of blackberry, licorice and plum. Full-bodied with chewy tannins and lots of fruit. A big, juicy wine, with plenty of muscle. A new Barolo from this producer. (JS)
The 2004 Barolo Mosconi is a powerful, direct wine built on a serious core of fruit. Although a bit one-dimensional next to the other 2004s here, there is little question the Mosconi has aged exceptionally well. Mocha, espresso, licorice and dark fruit meld into the sumptuous finish. Of the three Conterno-Fantino Barolos, the Mosconi is the best suited to aging in French oak because of the inherent textural richness of the fruit from this south-facing site. (AG)
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