The 2004 Barbaresco Riserva Montestefano is one of the more reticent wines in this lineup of 2004 Riservas. Its vibrant, fresh color is followed by notes of violets, roses, black cherries, menthol, smoke and licorice. The wine possesses tons of structure and sheer muscle behind the fruit, suggesting this will be an especially long-lived Barbaresco. In recent vintages I haven’t been the biggest fan of the Montestefano, but this superb 2004 is impossible to resist. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024.
Good full red. Reserved nose hints at mocha, smoked meat and truffle. Sweet, dense and intensely flavored; not yet especially expressive but suave and fine-grained. The wine's firm spine of acids and toothcoating tannins call for at least several years of patience. Both this and the Montefico come from sites facing full south.
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