A more elegant and wonderfully pure nose of red pinot fruit liqueur merges into rich, full and sweet flavors that possess lovely detail and a subtle minerality on the punchy, deep and long finish supported by relatively light but sophisticated tannins. I really like the balance here and this is a silky wine of refinement and class.
The 2006 Santenots du Milieu finished up its malo a bit earlier than the Champans, and was more amenable to being disturbed. The nose is deep and very pure, as it offers up a classic blend of sweet, dark berries, bitter chocolate, game, earth and woodsmoke. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and significantly less closed than the Champans, with broad shoulders, fine mid-palate depth and a long, ripely tannic finish. This is all terres rouges, and it has the power that reflects this, but it is a significantly more classic in shape and size than was the case a decade ago for this bottling, with a less extracted personality and a more refined and classic silhouette. Lovely potential. (Drink between 2017-2035) 90-92+
Good dark red. Subdued nose hints at cherry, flowers and mint, with a suggestion of candied ripeness. Then big, rich and sappy; less obviously sweet today than the Monthelie and the village wine but offers much more dimension. Strong, almost medicinal minerality contributes to this wine's sappiness. The long, youthful finish saturates the palate with flavor. Plenty in reserve here. (ST)
Ripe black fruits in the Lafon 2006 Volnay Santenots du Milieu saturate the palate while combining refreshing and invigorating brightness with depth of carnal and mineral dimensions. This shows formidable but finely-grained structure without giving up more than a little of the vivacity and penetration that characterized the corresponding Champans. I would definitely not fear laying this away for a few years but would target 6-8 years for drinking it. (DS)
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