The first grapes picked from the marl-rich upper portion of this site near Vaudesir, Fevre’s 2007 Chablis Valmur nonetheless displays (as in 2006) a dramatically different personality from their Vaudesir. Fresh lime, red currant, tangerine, grapefruit, and peony mingle in a Riesling-like effusion of fruit and flower, underlain by a salty and iodine-tinged mineral soup that seems as deep as the sea. Soundings reveal citrus zest, fruit pits, kelp, pine resin, and oyster shells. This should be an almost inexhaustible source of intrigue and pleasure over the coming decade. You’ll never get to the bottom of it, but so much the better for you and the wine! Fine as the 2006 was, this 2007 seems to illustrate the extent to which slow ripening, high extract, and bright acids best complement Valmur’s inherent character. (DS)
An extremely deft dash of wood is barely noticeable and merges seamlessly with highly complex if discreet aromas of limestone, lemon, oyster shell, sea breeze and white flowers. This is a big, powerful and incredibly precise wine with magnificent flavor authority and seemingly endless reserves of sappy extract. Tightly wound and still very youthful but the extract buffers the intense acidity and completely coats and stains the palate on the hugely long and intense finish. A knockout Valmur.
Pale yellow-green. Ripe aromas of peach and spice, with hints of exotic fruits. Sweet, dense and spicy, with a very firm acid spine currently keeping the wine's fruit in check. There's a silkiness of texture here, but I find this a bit youthfully disjointed today. Perhaps less pristine than the 2008 version but long on the finish. (ST) 92+
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