This is even more elegant than it usually is, which is saying something as there is a good argument to be made that the Fèvre Vaudésir is the current reference standard for the vineyard though I hasten to add that it's by no means an open and shut case. A pure and almost delicate nose that is decidedly more austere than virtually any of the preceding wines opens with a classic green fruit aromatic profile brimming with Chablis character that is followed by rich, full, naturally sweet and equally powerful flavors of simply incredible purity and focus as they finish with outstanding intensity that is borderline painful. This is a dramatic wine yet perfectly composed with a pronounced stony quality and the backend is bone dry and almost salty.
The Vaudésir parcel includes some of the domaine’s oldest vines, as these vines are in excess of seventy-five years of age. Their exposition is directly south, making them amongst the very earliest to ripen of all the domaine’s parcels, and they were picked at the outset along with the Vaillons in 2007. Despite its earlier ripening, this is a classically reserved and structure grand cru Chablis that will need several years to fully blossom, but offers up brilliant potential for those with a bit of patience. The bouquet is deep and pure, as it offers up scents of apples, oranges, white flowers, flint, wet stones and a gentle touch of hay. On the palate the wine is full-bodied, deep and well-balanced, with fine mid-palate depth, a classic sense of reserve on the attack, brisk acids, excellent focus and a very long, minerally finish. Superb juice. 94+
The Fevre 2007 Chablis Vaudesir exhibits a more adamant, chalky, oyster shell-like mineral cast than other crus in this collection, yet that goes hand in hand not only with a saline dimension, but with luscious, honey-tinged pineapple and peach, and a silken, faintly creamy textural tone. This finishes with an amazing indelibility of chalk and salt that’s like an incrustation. The big fruit and implacable mineral sides to this wine need some years to entirely come to terms with one another, but the whole will be bigger than the sum of both of them, and this wine should excite over at least the next decade. (DS)
Pale, bright yellow. Discreet, very pure aromas of lemon, crushed stone, white pepper and flowers. Highly concentrated, supple and silky, with lovely deep minerality giving this wine another dimension and contributing to its impression of personality. This very rich and tactile wine finishes with terrific cut and a distinctly saline quality that's supported by fresh citrus fruit. A perfect example of the way a normally warmer terroir can outperform in a cool year. (ST)
This starts out with a blast of peach, lemon and apple fruit, before a dry, chalky feel takes over in tandem with the steely structure. There's nice austerity and a mouthwatering finish. (BS)
As though carved with a steel knife. Lots of fruit - some of the most obvious fruit in any Chablis 2007 in fact, but well contained in its fine corset. Very promising.
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