From Howell Mountain, the 2004 Zinfandel Rattlesnake Ridge (less than 400 cases produced from a site adjacent to the well-known Black Sears Vineyard) is a terroir-based effort given the vineyard’s volcanic soils with considerable iron and white ash (known in California as tufa). At 15.9% alcohol, it is not a wimpish wine, but reveals surprising complexity with a sweet cherry, plum, and anise-scented nose, deep, rich, full-bodied flavors, gorgeous purity, and remarkable elegance as well as equilibrium. (RP)
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