Intriguing suggestions of crushed stone and iodine mingle with blackberry and cherry in the nose of the Chateau des Jacques 2009 Moulin-a-Vent Clos de Rochegres, from a site that features thin, iron-rich soil over hard granite mother rock at the summit of its appellation. This has a very different shape from any of its stable mates, round and enveloping, yet at the same time exhibiting vibratory energy, and depth of marrow and mineral matter, not to mention sweet fruit. Palate-staining in its persistence, this memorable and extraordinary value should prove a monument to its vintage worth following for 8, 10 ? (who can say really how many?) years. (DS)
Opaque purple. Highly perfumed, exotic bouquet of dark berry compote, cherry pit, dried herbs and violet, with hints of cola and vanilla in the background. Smooth, fleshy and expansive in the mouth, offering sweet blackberry and cherry-cola flavors and slow-building minerality. Very rich but surprisingly energetic as well, finishing with strong juicy thrust and a lingering note of smoky minerality. This one definitely deserves patience. (ST)
Dense and smoky, with light tannins supporting flavors of briary raspberry and blackberry, damson plum, creamy black licorice and lots of spice. Well-meshed, with an espresso-tinged finish. (AN)
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