Essentially brut reserve with more time in the cellar and no dosage, this is based on 2012. There's a slight reductive edge, with some apple, honey and lemon as well as subtly spicy elements, red apple and berry aromas. The palate has attractive bold fruit flavor and an assertive crunchy finish. Drink now.
Pale gold. Aromas of dried pear, quince and white flowers, with a hint of exotic fruits emerging with air. In the mouth, sappy mango, pineapple and honeysuckle flavors are braced by a refreshing jolt of bitter quinine that lends a refreshingly dry edge. Closes steely and taut, with lingering mineral and citrus qualities. I like the blend of richness and nerviness here. (JR)
This is the driest wine in an already-dry range of Champagnes. With no dosage, it is crisp, tight and mineral. The high proportion of Pinot Meunier in the blend brings out the the flavors of white fruits and the crisp texture. The bottling is still young and will be better from 2017. (RV)
A sleek, aperitif-style Champagne, with tightly meshed flavors of poached apple, lemon pith, smoke and biscuit riding the lacy mousse. Crisp, spiced finish. Drink now through 2020. (AN, Web Only-2017)
Billecart’s 2004 Extra Brut – on whose labels, incidentally, that designation of dryness only appears in tiny print – opens with intimations of the fresh lemon and crabapple that then dominate a lively and invigorating palate. Hints of yeast and baked goods in the nose anticipate the subtle creaminess of texture achieved inner-mouth even with such liveliness and cut as otherwise characterizes this cuvee. Chalk and crushed stone impressions lend a touch of austerity to a penetratingly bright but otherwise understated finish. This rarified bottling may well take on more richness and complexity with a couple of years of bottle age and will probably be worth following for at least half a dozen. Billecart puts great stock by age-worthiness post- (as well as, of course, prior to) disgorgement. (DS)
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