The 2009 Chardonnay Lauren Vineyard is one of the more understated wines in this lineup. It also shows a bit more freshness and brightness than the other 2009s. Tangerine, mint, light floral honey and spices are all beautifully layered into the detailed, nuanced finish. The French oak is better balanced here than in the Reuling, which allows the fruit to show the fullest breadth of its personality. Here, too, the finish seems to expand in every direction. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2017. This is a stunning set of wines from Mark Aubert... The Chardonnays spend 10-12 months in barrel, followed by 2 months in oak, and are usually bottled around Christmas. The cellar is kept cold to encourage slow malos, which occur in the spring. The wines are never racked until they are prepared for bottling with no fining or filtration. (AG)
Ultrarich and deeply concentrated, this is intense, persistent and graceful, with layers of ripe fig, honeydew melon, anise, sage and melted black licorice. Gets more complex and interesting with every sip. Best from 2012 through 2020. (JL)
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