Here is a deep and wonderfully concentrated young Cabernet that is long on showy oak but is directed first and foremost by its very deep and confident curranty fruit. It is full and fleshy in feel with carefully integrated tannins lending structure without undue toughness, and both its balance and real sense of fruity reserve make a strong and compelling case for five to ten years of steady improvement. Some may find its reliance on ripeness a bit more than they like, but if you are a seeker of depth and precise character, then this beauty is going to taste as good as it can get in the variety.
This 2002 begins slowly, as its aromatics are difficult to coax from the glass and its flavors are subtle, although they build incrementally as the wine sits in the glass. While it requires some introspection, what is there is very impressive. Deep black currant notes intermixed with notions of cedarwood, tobacco leaf and loamy soil as well as serious concentration are present in this well-delineated, medium to full-bodied, well-endowed wine. Consumers need to give it more than a superficial glance. It will be even better with 2-3 more years of cellaring and should keep for 15 years.
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