*Cellar Selection* From the winery’s own Westside Road vineyard, formerly called Litton, comes this grandiose, if immature, Pinot Noir. In its youth it’s all about primary, jammy raspberry and cherry fruit. On the edges are fine acidity, smooth tannins and a perfect appliqué of oak. Shows the hallmarks of this great, emerging vineyard, but needs serious time to come around.
Beautifully crafted, intense and vibrant, displaying zesty wild berry, raspberry and red and black licorice notes. Full-bodied and focused, gaining depth and richness. (JL)
Bright ruby. Heady, expansive bouquet of raspberry compote, cherry-vanilla and gingerbread, with notes of white pepper and licorice in the background. Smooth and fleshy in the mouth, offering sweet red and dark berry flavors and nuances of candied flowers and herbs. Pretty hefty but by no means thick--in fact this is pretty lithe. Finishes with very good clarity and smoky, floral persistence. (ST)
Nose has deep cherry overtones with light hints of cranberry. This medium-bodied wine is tight and structured with tension and focused fruits. It needs a few years to come together and show its full potential.
**Two Stars** This is not a bold wine nor is it one of great reach, but its wonderfully precise and keen sense of fruit is nevertheless the mark of true success. It is bright and buoyant and exceptionally long on the palate, and, when a wine has the beauty and careful proportion that this one does, it simply does not need more muscle or oak or size to be better. Sometimes less really is more.
The 2009 Pinot Noir Estate Vineyard shows off gorgeous depth, intensity and balance. Dark cherries, spices, licorice and sweet herbs are some of the many notes that are woven together in this vivid, elegant wine. The Estate impresses for its terrific overall balance and sheer energy. (AG)
This grows at Williams Selyem’s latest vineyard project, planted in 2002, a half-mile south of the Allen Vineyard on Westside Road. Those vines outperformed many of their Russian River neighbors in 2008, but their fruit is more recessed in 2009, at least at the moment we tasted this wine. There’s a sweet cranberry scent to the fruit, but it’s mostly hidden under new oak. Bottle age should bring the elements into better balance and winemaker Bob Cabral is confident in the future of his 2009s.
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