A heady and rich style, with plenty of crisp acidity running underneath the plush, smoke-tinged flavors of tangerine, apple, pear and guava. Displays an elegant spiciness, featuring an airy texture that lingers with citrus peel notes. Complex. Drink now through 2040. (KM)
The Donnhoff 2011 Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Auslese gold capsule represents a selection of partly-botrytized bunches pulled out before what remained was packed under film to await the first hard frost. Mango and papaya, quince and peach deliver an impression both tropical and northerly, with musky animal and smoky black tea scents adding intrigue, while alkaline, saline, and otherwise maritime nuances lend saliva-inducing counterpoint to this elixir’s sheer richness of fruit as well as its palate’s opulence, oily texture, and honeyed glaze. There is a glowing, soothing yet stimulating harmony to the finish, even if not the animation or spellbinding interactivity of this year’s Donnhoff Spatlesen. I would plan to follow it over the next 20-25 years. Donnhoff doesn’t disagree with me that this is 2011 first and Brucke second. “You can’t heighten the typicity of the site by means of botrytis,” he adds. “That reached its apex already in the Spatlese.” (DS)
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