The 2011 La Forest from Vincent Dauvissat is a lovely bottle, and as I was tasting the wine fairly soon after the mise, I may well be underestimating the wine a tad. The deep and utterly classic nose wafts from the glass in a blend of green apple, pear, flinty minerality, plenty of beeswax, white flowers and a dollop of vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and complex, with excellent mid-palate depth, lovely transparency and bounce, crisp acids and excellent focus and grip on the long and beautifully balanced finish. Just a lovely, lovely bottle of La Forest. (Drink between 2015-2040)
A much more cryptic and savory wine, this has a little grapefruit and some flinty elements, too. The palate’s taut, integrated and fluid; the phenolics have a nice role to play; the acidity is high; and the chalky, white-peach finish is long and even.
Bright pale yellow. Penetrating mineral aromas of crushed stone and oyster shell, with a hint of ripe grapefruit in the background. Wonderfully juicy and vibrant if youthfully taut, offering uncanny intensity and tactility for the vintage. Finishes saline and extremely long, with notes of lime, oatmeal and powdered stone. This palate-staining wine left my salivary glands quivering. Dauvissat does a vendange entier, practically no debourbage and almost no stirring of the lees.
A beautifully layered nose features plenty of classic Chablis character on the notes of ripe citrus, sea breeze, dried flowers, quinine and mineral reduction. The punchy medium-bodied flavors are built on a base of minerality that adds lift to the tension-filled finish that coats the mouth with acid buffering dry extract. This is still relatively tight but not so much that it couldn't be enjoyed if decanted for 30 minutes first - that said I would be inclined to allow this to sit in a cool cellar for another 3 to 5 years as it's clear that it's still on the way up. Tasted twice this year with similar results.
Tasted blind at the Burgundy 2011 horizontal tasting in Beaune. I must confess that Dauvissat’s 2011 Chablis 1er Cru La Fôrets completely caught me out, but his wines are notoriously difficult to taste blind when young. The nose is a moody old bugger, like trying to wake up your snoozing grandpa in his comfy chair. Rather than a lack of intensity, I just think this is stubborn and backward. The palate has a twist of bitter lemon on the entry and this is where the action is, with touches of white pepper and dried herbs infusing the finish that still seems insulted that it would be assessed blind. The ignominy! Having forwarded by desultory mark, naturally the wine opens and begins to motor.
The 2011 Chablis La Forest is seriously beautiful. White peaches, pears, flowers, crushed rocks, mint and slate meld together in a hugely inviting, textured Chablis that will drink beautifully right out of the gate. At the same time, the 2011 is seriously inward for the year and clearly still has a lot more to say. A recent bottle of the 2010 was stellar.
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