Bright ruby-red. Heady, complex scents of candied red berries, potpourri, star anise and cola, with mocha and incense notes emerging with aeration. Sappy, penetrating, sharply focused raspberry and rose pastille flavors stain the palate, showing serious depth while coming off as weightless. Closes on a sweet red fruit note, with outstanding length and lingering floral character. (ST)
Soft yet tannic, this has a brooding quality that suggests it will benefit from some time in the cellar. It shows elaborate flavors of blackberries, plums and cola, with earthy notes of mushrooms and mulch. Good now, after decanting, and should gradually evolve in the bottle over the next 6-8 years.
**Two Stars** Among the tightest and least outgoing of the latest Williams Selyem set yet never impressing as a wine that is wanting in fruit, this firmly built wine is a reminder that structure and richness are not mutually exclusive, and its careful composition wins it enthusiastic recommendation. It is trim and tailored and wonderfully continuous on the palate, and it has terrific potential for age.
Benefits from a kiss of creamy oak, with a supple texture and flavors built around ripe raspberry, black cherry and subtle earth notes. Gains on the finish. Drink now through 2021. (JL)
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