*Sweet spot, Outstanding* A beautifully nuanced and layered nose offers up notes of mineral reduction, citrus and high-toned white flower perfume. The rich, intense and ultra-pure flavors glide across the palate to deliver the same terrific depth on the strikingly long finish as the nose originally promised. This is first rate.
Billaud-Simon’s 2011 Chablis Montee de Tonnerre – from vines principally in Chapelot, and some third of which are among the domaine’s oldest, planted in 1935 – delivers sweetly-ripe pear, kiwi and grapefruit sizzlingly tinged with white pepper, radish and lemon zest, and imbued with a sense of chalk dust suffusion and illusive kelp and seaweed. There is so much going on in this densely packed bottling that you almost want to spread it more thinly to get a better view, which is not something I would say about many other wines of this vintage. I suspect that this one may well gain stature in bottle and will certainly be worth following through at least 2018.
Bright green-tinged yellow. Captivating aromas of white peach, lime and powdered stone are complicated by a gingery nuance. Rich and broad but youthfully tight, with lovely energy and a touch of menthol austerity to the white peach and crushed stone flavors. Mounts slowly and builds impressively on the fresh, dry, backward finish, which boasts a rich pineapple note. This excellent premier cru calls for a few years of cellaring.
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