Williams Selyem has been buying grapes from Calegari since 2008, but this is the first vineyard designate they’ve made from this small vineyard in the heart of the Russian River Valley. At first the wine feels overly dramatic, its brash, rooty tannins vying against a plump fruit sweetness. It’s flavorful and structured, but it still needs some time to come into focus. With air it builds into a more gentle persistence, the fatness of its texture cushioning dark, spicy tones that would be delicious with grilled quail.
Vivid ruby-red. Highly perfumed, vibrant aromas of black raspberry, anise, blood orange and pungent flowers. Dense but penetrating, offering juicy red and dark berry flavors and showing very good concentration. Finishes silky and long, with fine-grained tannins adding grip.
It takes a lot for winemaker Bob Cabral to allow a vineyard into the Williams Selyem pantheon, but Calegari now joins the thoroughbred stable. The wine shows the exceptional richness and ripeness you expect from a Cabral wine, with ripe raspberry and cherry pie flavors, as well as a strong showing of sweet, smoky oak.
Moderately ripe, with plum, raspberry, floral and spice notes. A touch of crushed rock earthiness holds down the finish. Drink now through 2019. (JL, Web-2014)
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