Medium straw-yellow. Aromas and flavors of ginger apple and quinine. Supple, rich and silky; glyceral and layered but fresh, with good stony minerality carrying the fruit. This complex, rich wine possesses impressive gras for the year. These grand crus were fermented in large used barrels.
The Drouhin Vaudon 2011 Chablis Les Clos projects considerable primary citric juiciness along with saline and alkaline maritime minerality; and these largely dominate over restrained notes of lanolin and resin from barrel. Glossy in texture but buoyant and bright, this finishes with the sort of pronounced piquancy that characterized the corresponding Bougros. But all three 2011 grand crus I tasted from this estate fail to deliver the finishing clarity, primary juiciness, mineral expression or mouthwatering savor that accrued to their premier cru siblings. I would plan to serve this by 2018, although if it appears in a year or two that the wood is receding further and the finish becoming concomitantly more expressive, then I would be inclined to move back that estimate. Given all of the work that goes into the biodynamic farming of Drouhin Vaudon’s vineyards and especially the attention lavished on their Les Clos, there should be more to show for it in the glass.
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