*Editors' Choice* This is the best value of the winery’s spring lineup of seven 2012 Pinot Noirs. It’s dry, delicate, modest in alcohol, tart and complex. Waves of raspberries and cherries, mushrooms, red currants, Dr. Pepper cola and exotic spices wash across the palate, delicious and flashy. It’s ready to drink now.
Composed mostly of Russian River fruit from young vines and vineyards that winemaker Bob Cabral is test driving, this is dark in its fruit but bright in its acidity, which gives the wine a satisfying snap. Its green edges go in a savory direction with air, turning toward a coastal sea-wrack complexity. Decant this now with roast quail, or save it for later—it has enough structure to gain from a few years in the cellar.
Our favorite among the Williams Selyem appellation bottlings, this one from Sonoma County challenges a good many of its high-ticket siblings when to comes to proportion, pure fruit and fine balance. While fairly rich, it is always controlled with nary a hint of excess, and it has the careful structure of a wine that will age quite well. We very much like its potential and foresee four or five years of real growth in its future.
Bright ruby. Powerful cherry and blackberry scents are energized by tangy acidity and a smoky mineral quality. At once rich and lively on the palate, offering sweet dark berry flavors and a touch of licorice. In a weighty, rather masculine style for this producer, with a note of cola building on the youthfully tannic finish.
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