The Dauvissats farm 9.4 acres of vines in La Forest, their largest premier cru holding. Vincent Dauvissat ages the wine in Nevers oak, with less than 10 percent new barrels. This wine’s beautiful form is apparent from the moment it’s poured, the flavors of chamomile and fennel seed, almond and grain encapsulated in cool, stony tension. It tastes umami-rich and feels perfectly knit, opening slowly over the course of several days until the flavors turn racy, their energy setting up the wine up for a decade or more of evolution in bottle.
Bright, pale yellow. Less fruity and exotic than the Montée de Tonnerre, hinting at oyster shell on the nose. Sappy, chewy and concentrated but quite dry; distinctly more stony and mineral than the Montée de Tonnerre and every bit as long. This struck me as like a mini-Clos. An outstanding and ageworthy 2013 but it's not especially austere today. (ST)
There is an abundance of Chablis character here with notes of iodine, algae, citrus and much more discreet nuances of mineral reduction along with hints of dried yellow orchard fruit. The silky yet entirely serious medium-bodied flavors exhibit plenty of minerality on the citrusy and hugely long finish that is clean, dry, long and balanced. This highly impressive effort should reward up to a decade of cellar time though drink well before that if desired.
The 2013 Chablis 1er Cru la Forest has a languid sense of harmony on the nose with hints of marmalade bubbling through. The palate is very refined and natural with well-judged acidity and a brisk spicy finish that should give great pleasure once in bottles. Just a couple of old bottles to finish with, testament to the aging ability of Vincent Dauvissat’s wines. (NM)
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