Following a trend in Barcelona, the vermouth revival is in full swing, as evidenced by the imminent blossoming of vermouth bars in Chicago (Artemisia) and Los Angeles (Maruno). This is good, as a profusion of new vermouths has been arriving in recent years, from ancient purveyors like Martini and new ones like La Quintinye. The base for La Quintinye’s Rouge, Blanc and Extra Dry is the fortified wine Pineau des Charentes, which is then infused with 12 botanicals, including vine flowers, ginger, nutmeg and the requisite wormwood. While mixable, the vermouths adopt a robust and characterful style, making them utterly sippable on their own, especially the aggressively flavored Blanc. The Rouge and Extra Dry, however, will beautifully animate any cocktail. (JM)
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