Maybe the best wine from Adam in 2014 is the 2014 Pinot Noir Pisoni Vineyard. Giving up the classic minerality that's common from this site, it has lots of sweet black raspberry and violet nuances, medium-bodied depth and richness and a fresh, focused, elegant style on the palate. It showed more tannic structure with time in the glass, yet given the fruit and balance, I've no doubt it will be approachable on release. While recently sold to Kendall-Jackson, Siduri’s founder, Adam Lee, remains firmly onboard as winemaker and doesn’t have any plans of walking away soon. While it’s difficult to see the impact of the sale at the moment, I think Adam is making better wines today than he ever has. (JD)
Adam Lee's bottling from one of the region's most famous vineyards is a winner for fans of the rich style of Pinot, lush with blackberry jam, lilac, cinnamon and gingerbread. The palate is similarly dense, soft and sultry, with tart olallieberry jam and plum jelly, but also lively with thyme, spearmint and a unique lemon verbena kick. (MK)
Brilliant purple. Highly perfumed, mineral- and spice-tinged dark berry, cola and floral pastille aromas show excellent clarity and a hint of smokiness that gains strength with air. Silky and precise on entry, then broader and deeper in the midpalate, offering vibrant black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and a touch of floral pastilles. Finishes sappy and extremely long, with supple tannins shaping the exuberant fruit. Adam Lee has been producing wines from some of the best vineyards in the Santa Lucia Highlands since 1997, when he made his first Pisoni Vineyard bottling. He also made the Franscioni family’s first ROAR wines in 2001 and maintains very close personal ties with them, along with being a big customer for their fruit to this day. Lee bottles an extensive range of Pinot Noirs from vineyards ranging from Oregon down to the Santa Barbara County and his entry-level regional wines, in particular, deliver outstanding value, as they are made from fruit from some of the West Coast’s best sites. Followers of the Siduri wines over the years can’t help but notice that the style here has moved progressively toward less weight and greater elegance, a fact that Lee acknowledges to be a reflection of his own "growing up and evolving, taste-wise," which he says is "a pretty logical and common evolution for anybody who drinks or makes wine." (JR)
*Two Stars* Although striking for its richness and the sense of fruity density that are the hallmarks of this renowned site, Siduri's latest Pisoni bottling is a slightly supple, exceptionally well-structured Pinot whose solidity and inklings of varietal velvet raise expectations of very good things ahead. That is not to say that it is in any way hidden or closed at the moment, but those willing to look past its admittedly delectable juiciness and allow it a chance to fully unfold will find that waiting for some three to five years was the far better course than hasty drinking.
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