The 2006 brings back all the wonder of classic Comtes: the innocence of a joyful childhood, a free-as-air dash through endless blue daylight and a breathless plunge into an icy mountain rock pool. A wine of coiled energy, focus, precision and minerality that bores to the very core of the finest chalkfields of the Côte des Blancs.
The 2006 Comtes de Champagne is striking, especially in the way it brings together elements of ripeness and freshness in a hypothetical blend of the 2002 and 2004. Smooth and creamy on the palate, the 2006 is all about texture. There is a real feeling of density and weight in the 2006, qualities I expect to see grow with time in the bottle. All the elements fall into place effortlessly. The 2006 has been nothing short of magnificent both times I have tasted it. Comtes de Champagne remains the single best value (in relative terms) in tête de cuvée Champagne. I suggest buying a case and following it over the next 20-30 years, which is exactly what I intend to do. There is little doubt the 2006 Comtes de Champagne is a magical Champagne in the making. (AG) 97+
Taittinger’s prestige cuvée epitomizes the Chardonnay predilection of this producer. This now-mature bottling is elegant and very stylish. Toast and a soft texture combine with great complexity to reveal a wine that is poised and ready to drink. But with the acidity in the background, it could still age, so drink now and until 2022. *Cellar Selection* (RV)
In much the same fashion as the '06 Rosé this is aromatically quite restrained with notably cool and elegant aromas that speak of citrus, floral, yeast and green apple nuances. The wonderfully refined mouth feel is enhanced by the beautifully fine effervescence that shapes the medium weight flavors that culminate in crisp, intense and gorgeously complex and persistent finish. This is not only a terrific effort but it's an amazingly good 2006 as there are no exotic hints plus it offers exceptionally good verve. While this could certainly be enjoyed now I would be inclined to hold it for at least another 3 years and 5 will probably be the sweet spot.
Based on first pressing Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs, the 2006 Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs opens with a precise, fresh and concentrated bouquet of ripe fruits on the nose. On the palate this is a less rich and opulent 2006, but its complexity, intensity and tension in combination with the linear freshness, purity and serious expression in the long and mineral finish, make this a top wine of the vintage. (SR)
A vivacious Champagne, with fine integration of the racy acidity and chalky bead, rich mineral character and creamy palate of glazed apricot, ground anise, biscuit and passion fruit flavors. Offers a firm, focused finish. Drink now through 2030. (AN)
Very rich and toasty with suggestions of soy and roasted Meyer lemons making the early going and supported nicely by chalky and yeasty notes, this wine is fairly expressive and holds little back in its pursuit of a bolder style for Blanc de Blancs. Its mousse is full, foamy and somewhat pushy and is very much in keeping with the direction of the wine, yet the underlying flavor profile claims both richness and expected austerity. Those who seek a lighter version might look elsewhere, but there is plenty here for everyone else.
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