The 2005 Santenay Clos Tavennes showed no ill effects of having been hailed on this year, and the minuscule crop indeed was surely a factor influencing the wine’s impressive concentration. Smoky, gamey notes mingled with lightly cooked mulberry, plum and blackberry characterize the nose. A deep richness of black fruits and roasted meat flavors fill the mouth and there is a lot more glycerin and weight than in the Gravieres, as well as an invigorating fruit skin tartness and an expansive, staining finish of black fruits, brown spices, nut oils, raw meat and chalk. Nearly a third of the site is in vines planted in 1920 when Pousse d’Or was still jointly owned with Romanee Conti. (DS)
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