*One Star & Good Value* It may not be cheap, but this is a Pinot that outperforms at the price. It leads with a moderately deep, nicely composed nose of ripe cherries, raspberries and dried roses with a well-considered dollop of sweet oak, and its rich and continuous flavors build on its very handsome aromatic beginnings. Although moderately full-bodied, it is so lissome and lithe that it never seems in the least bit heavy, and, as free of angles and edges as it may be, it nonetheless has the structural inner bones to improve for a few years and then keep for a good many more.
Brilliant red. Zesty, spice-accented red berries and fresh flowers on the fragrant nose and in the mouth. Juicy and tightly focused; a hint of allspice appears as the wine opens up. Closes on a clean, spicy note, offering energetic cut and silky tannins that sneak in slowly. These fruit-driven, generous, accessible wines are mostly built for early enjoyment but the reds also have the concentration and tannic structure to reward at least mid-term aging. I’ve found that Morgan’s Pinot Noirs usually drink well until their seventh birthdays, at least, and the Syrahs will no doubt go even farther although, like most examples of that variety from the Santa Lucia Highlands, they’re in no way forbidding when young. Dan Morgan Lee planted his first vines in the region on a 65-acre property at the northern border of the appellation in 1997 and that property, the Double L Vineyard, now comprises 97 acres of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, plus microscopic plots of Syrah and Riesling. The Morgan lineup is rounded out with wines made from fruit purchased from three of the region’s most esteemed vineyards, Rosella’s, Garys’ and Tondre Grapefield. (JR)
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