From a site that need not fear competition from its even more prestigious and equally basalt-based neighbors Jesuitengarten and Kirchenstück (and that happens to be among my long-standing favorites), this exemplar leads with a site-typical pungent combination of musky floral and animal scents with sage and grapefruit rind. It comes to the palate full, expansive and round, albeit with grapefruit juiciness and a tart hint of redcurrant serving for some welcome counterpoint. Possibly 13.5% alcohol is one reason that there is not quite the clarity, interplay or vivacity here for which I had hoped. But the finish is intense and persistent. (DS)
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