A subtle dash of oak influence highlights the equally dense dark berry fruit nose of surpassing elegance and refinement that complements perfectly the texture and very Gevrey medium full flavors that in contrast to the nose seem less refined than usual. Indeed, this is a powerful Latricières that at present anyway seems to under emphasize the underlying minerality so typical of this cru though the finish is long, velvety and mouth coating. A qualitative choice though the respective characters are very different.
The 2005 Latricieres-Chambertin (purchased partly as grapes and partly as wine) offers a clear, enticing nose of tiny purple plums, blueberries, lilies, beef marrow, and hints of caramel and vanilla. Polished and bright, it exudes the refinement that the Chapelle lacked, leading to a real rush of lingering sweet, caramel- and vanilla-tinged fruit in the finish. The tannins are abundant but ultra-refined. Sock this away for at least a decade and figure on at least an additional decade to hold. There will be a relatively hefty 225 cases. Readers are referred to Pierre Rovani’s report in Issue 160 for details on the acquisition of this house in 2002 by Ann Colgin and a group of Americans, and on Becky Wasserman’s directorial role. At only around 4,500 cases, 2005 will represent their largest production yet, “and we’ll stay small,” says young, manifestly-talented winemaker David Croix. Croix works intensively in the vineyard with most of his suppliers. He ages the wines largely in newly-purchased but once-used barrels, augmented by a low percentage of new casks. I tasted all of the wines immediately prior to their first racking which was late, explains Croix (despite malo-lactic fermentations early by 2005 standards), because the quality of the fruit deserved the enrichment and protection of long lees contact and a slightly reduced state. They will be bottled without filtration in March or April. (DS)
(a blend of grapes vinified by Croix and purchased wine) Saturated ruby-red. Deep, captivating aromas of blueberry, blackberry, violet, minerals and sexy oak. Then juicy and tightly wound but with terrific intensity and lift; with aeration this showed an increasingly creamy, fine-grained texture and noteworthy ripeness and elegance. Very broad wine, dry in a positive way. The longest to this point of these 2005s. Finishes with strong, dusty tannins and lingering notes of dark berries, flowers and minerals. A superb showing today. (ST)
A broad, concentrated red, this is full of black cherry, blackberry, vanilla and other sweet spices. A vein of mineral lingers in the background. It's balanced, with the refined tannins covered by fruit at this stage. Very long, echoing spice and mineral in the aftertaste. Best from 2015 through 2038.
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