Glass-staining ruby. Explosive blue fruit, incense and oak spice aromas are brightened by notes of black pepper and fresh lavender, and a mineral nuance builds in the glass. Seamless, sweet and expansive in the mouth, offering juicy blueberry, cherry cola and floral pastille flavors that slowly put on weight and become spicier with air. Velvety tannins sneak up slowly on the extremely long finish, where the spice, floral and blue fruit notes echo strongly. The intellectually restless Matt Trevisan, who was born and raised in Southern California before moving the area in 1990 to attend Cal Poly, in San Luis Obispo, and set up Linne Calodo in 1998, has a healthy obsession with minutiae in the vineyard and cellar. That’s made clear by the small tanks, mostly concrete, that he’s fond of using in his winery as well as the very specific and shifting blends of the range of wines that he produces. Then there are the less obvious facts. For example, Trevisan’s own vineyard, which surrounds his roomy, highly efficient and modern winery, is broken up into 20 plots of roughly a single acre each and is planted to eight different varieties. The Linne Calodo wines consistently walk the line between richness and vivacity. Because of their energy, freshness and purity of fruit the wines are usually delicious on the young side, but they have an enviable track record for rewarding patience as well.(JR)
The Zinfandel-dominated 2014 Problem Child, which incorporates 20% Syrah and 8% Mourvedre, has lots of bramble, sweet cherry and strawberry fruits, and tons of spice to go with a classic, pure and polished Zinfandel profile on the palate. Complex, forward, sexy and seamless, it too should drink beautifully for 7-8 years. A genius when it comes to fashioning incredible blends from Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache and Zinfandel (as well as a few others), Linne Calodo's Matt Trevisan eschews single varieties and makes seamless, elegant and character-filled wines that are always an utter joy to drink. (JD)
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