Umathum pulled this wine from a one-hectare patch of extremely gravelly soil (thus the vineyard name, vom stein, or “of stone”). In 2009, the drainage that soil afforded was key, as it rained quite a bit that summer; by September, however, the skies cleared and it stayed warm into October. Between the wine’s age and its measured ripeness, it feels beautifully balanced, the scents richly woodsy and the flavor spicy, earthy and bright with still-vibrant acidity. It lasts with notes of cedar, rose and herbs, a gentle wine for a mushroom pasta.
Dark bright crimson. Attractively fresh fruit. Real zest. Lots of acidity but sufficiently convincing fruit weight to counterbalance it. Youthful. Vigorous. Good potential.
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