A pungently smoky, incisive, savory mélange of sage, dark tobacco and black pepper is allied to ripe peach and garlanded with heliotrope in a head-turningly intense nose. That full range of elements reprises on a polished palate, whose textural caress and sweet sense of ripeness are combined with welcome, tangy, chewy counterpoint of peach skin and a refreshingly juicy squirt of fresh lime. The finish offers a mouthwateringly prolonged, kaleidoscopic interaction of fruity, savory and smoky elements -- plenty rich, yet with rare cut and animation for its vintage. (DS)
The 2015 Riesling Smaragd Dürnsteiner Kellerberg displays a clear, ripe and concentrated bouquet of white fruits intermixed with crystalline flavors of the weathered gneiss and granite soils. Full-bodied, piquant and full of tension, this is a stunningly clear and refreshing Smaragds from a warm year. The alcohol is well hidden and the finish is very long and vibrantly fresh. There is a lot of mineral tension and music in this wine that should be cellared for another five or six years. (SR)
Peach, apple and brown spice flavors mingle in this opulent yet structured Riesling, whose vivid acidity offsets the flesh. Underlying citrus and stone elements emerge on the finish. (BS)
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