Fermented in tank and then aged in cask, whence I last tasted it, this projects a relatively soft profile, with ripe Bartlett pear and honeydew melon lusciously dominating. But welcome counterpoint arrives in the form of varietally typical crunch of snap pea, site-typically peppery pungency and stony impingement, and a glowing piquancy of fruit seed on the impressively sustained finish. Among the current collection’s Grüner Veltliner bottlings, this one preserves noteworthy juiciness and balances richness with tension and invigoration. (DS)
The 2015 Riesling Smaragd Loibner Steinertal displays a clear and aromatic, concentrated bouquet of white peaches. Full-bodied, piquant and fresh on the palate this is a rather lean and straightforward Riesling with a piquant acidity. The finish is pure and salty and reveals a very nice grip. (SR)
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