Planted in 1998 with 110 diverse genotypes and several rootstocks, the golden-yellow colored 2015 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Wachstum Bodenstein displays a deep, yet very clear and pure, fascinatingly aromatic bouquet of ripe fruits and crushed stones. Full-bodied, complex and very salty, this is a rich and highly elegant as well as intense Veltliner with great tension and a stimulating grip and salinity in the finish. Great complexity and length. (SR)
Luscious honeydew and Persian melon are strongly accented by white pepper and fresh ginger, with an underlying sense of stoniness further helping to supply contrast and to push back against a ripeness so generous (and an acidity relatively low) that despite harboring only a few grams of residual sugar, the wine hints at sweetness. Surprisingly and delightfully, the seductively lingering finish exhibits a striking sense of transparency to spicy, smoky, peppery and crystalline mineral nuances that belies the wine's dominant lushness and ripeness. Not for the first time, this wine from 20-year-old vines makes a strong case for the virtues of genetic diversity. (DS)
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