The 2015 Bâtard-Montrachet from Domaine Fontaine-Gagnard is a cool and classy customer, coming in at 13.1 percent octane and delivering great elegance and depth on both the nose and palate. The bouquet is a stunning blend of pear, apple, lemon, chalky soil tones, a hint of the pastry cream to come, citrus zest and vanillin oak. On the palate the wine is deep, fullbodied, pure and very mineral in profile, with a gorgeous core of fruit, snappy acids and superb length and grip on the poised and perfectly balanced finish. Great juice! 2020-2050.
The Bâtard is more reserved than the extrovert Criots, but it is the more serious bottle this year, with a restrained bouquet of Meyer lemon, poached pear, iodine and white flowers, again framed by some creamy new wood. On the palate the wine is very concentrated, deep and pure, with notable extract and texture, and a long, penetrating, powerful finish. Superb. Drinking Window 2022 - 2033.(WK)
(from a .30 ha parcel in Chassagne) Moderately firm reduction presently dominates the underlying fruit. Otherwise, the succulent yet powerful flavors possess imposing size, weight and punch while also concluding in a robust, mouth coating and firmly structured finish. Like the Criots this is absolutely going to require at least mid-term cellaring but it should be well worth the wait. Drink: 2025+
Pale, bright yellow. Ripe peach, menthol and spice aromas suggest a powerful wine. Concentrated, broad, smooth and sweet, with an element of gingery spice and firm acidity giving shape to the very ripe, savory peach and pineapple flavors and leavening the impression of early sucrosité. At once less fruity, less minerally and less refined than the Caillerets but still offers lovely shape and restraint for its substantial volume. Finishes smooth and long, with distinct salinity. I'd like to come back to this wine in three or four years, when it has absorbed some of its baby fat. (ST)
Subtle, creamy and promising on the nose. Deep and concentrated on the palate, with great intensity and freshness combined. More wine than fruit, if you know what I mean. Great length. (JH) 17.5/20 points
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