Chris Alheit told me that at present, the 2015 Cartology Bush Vines comes from nine vineyards. It offers complex and quite arresting aromas of walnut, wax resin, linseed and smoke that blossom in the glass, always as much an intellectual proposition as a sensory one. The palate is well balanced with superb balanced, very saline in the mouth, evoking images of the sea, fanning out with citrus fruit mixed with hazelnut and Chinese five spice. This is yet another killer wine in the Cartology series since 2011. (NM)
Gorgeous, with rich lemon curd, shortbread and white peach notes contrasted with racy quinine, verbena and white ginger flavors. The long finish ripples with minerality and clementine zest. Shows terrific range and length. Chenin Blanc and Sémillon. Drink now through 2025.
Pale straw-gold. A slightly resiny quality intrudes on aromas of lemon zest, orange blossom, quince and lanolin. Rich, slightly sweet and deep, offering lovely concentration and inner-mouth density to its waxy Sémillon and soft citrus notes; classically dry with time in the glass. Most impressive today for its velvety middle and tactile, palate-staining finish but this wine needs patience. A distinctly powerful and slightly wild style at 14%, and a touch phenolic as well. There's something Old World about this serious Chenin/Sémillon blend, which held up very well in the recorked bottle.
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