Planted in 1935, this single vineyard wine is rich and structured. At this stage, it is dominated by firm tannins as much as by the perfumed juicy black fruits. As the wine softens with age, this generous fruitiness will comet through to give a deliciously ripe wine. Drink from 2019.
Deep ruby. Expressive aromas of red fruit liqueur, allspice and minerals develop a sexy floral nuance in the glass. Sappy, appealingly sweet and precise, offering intense raspberry and boysenberry flavors that tighten up slowly on the back half. Deftly blends power and finesse and finishes very long, smooth and sappy, displaying lingering florality and a hint of spicecake.
As I have noted in the past, the Morgon “Vignes de 1935” bottling from Jean-Michel Dupré hails from the lieu à dit of Grand Cras at the base of the Côte du Py. These old vines celebrated their eightieth anniversary in 2015 and offer up a really superb bouquet of red and black cherries, dark soil tones, a touch of cola, woodsmoke, fresh thyme and just a touch of balsam bough in the upper register. On the palate the wine is deep, full-bodied, ripe and gently chewy, with a superb core, fine focus and grip, moderate tannins and very good length and grip on the quite pure, albeit youthful finish. Like many of the most successful 2015s, this has a bit of tannin to resolve, but is focused and shows only a whisper of sur maturité. I suspect this will have a gently roasted personality at full maturity, but it is fine juice in need of just a bit more bottle age to blossom. 2018-2040.
The 2015 Morgon Vignes de 1935, aged for 6 months in concrete vats, has an uncomplicated raspberry, crushed strawberry and slightly tertiary bouquet. The palate is medium-bodied with fleshy, ripe red fruit, well balanced and perhaps less outgoing than many other Morgon 2015s. Yet the restraint pays off because there is great freshness and delineation here - a harmonious Morgon with a lovely touch of brown spices towards the finish. This is very satisfying and it should age well over 5-7 years. (NM)
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