*Cellar Selection* Following on from the great 2002 vintage of this wine, the 2004 is equally memorable. It is a magnificent wine, structured and beautifully balanced between the ripe white fruits and the tight texture that will allow it to age many years. While drinkable now, it is still young at 11 years, still with great potential. (RV)
This has trademark richness, power and complexity with a layer of spiced grilled hazelnuts and brown-mushroom aromas set across lemon, grapefruit and dried-red fruits. The palate has a full, pastry-like texture showing bold flavors and an assertively fleshy cherry and peach core. The tannins are smooth and ripe, carrying the finish long. This is framed up for further enrichment. Plenty to offer now but best from 2020 and a decade after that still.
An intense golden-yellow color dresses the Pol Roger prestige cuvée 2004 Sir Winston Churchill, which opens with a clear, deep, dense, ripe, fresh, pure and elegant bouquet of matured apples, apricots and lemon flavors along with exciting spicy flavors. Although this Brut is already more than 11-years-old, it is dew-fresh and still developing--slowly. This Champagne is highly complex and well structured on the palate, with grapefruit flavors; it is a full-bodied and intense, yet very firm, persistent, fresh and very elegant assemblage of unnamed Grand Cru Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays. It reveals a very long and complex, powerful but stimulating finish, and obviously, an eternal youth. The finish is powerful and stringent, and reveals a great, great aging potential. The wine is somewhat restrained and too compact at the moment though, and should benefit from a longer bottle aging. (SR)
The flagship 2004 Brut Sir Winston Churchill is creamy, ample and highly expressive, but it is also a bit more forward than I expected for the vintage. Apricot jam, honey, spice, smoke, brioche and lovely hints of toastiness all add to the wine's considerable appeal, while there is no shortage of density or volume. All that said, the wine's balance is not as fine as I had hoped it would be. Perhaps a bit more time in bottle will do the trick. To be sure, the 2004 Churchill is more advanced than most other tête de cuvées in this vintage. (AG)
This creamy version has a subtle richness, folded into a fresh, elegant frame. Shows layers of crème de cassis, toast and pastry cream, with citrus peel, smoky mineral and spice accents echoing on the long finish. (AN)
Pol Roger’s tête de cuvée emphasizes pinot noir over chardonnay, all of the grapes from grands crus. And this is a grand wine, powerful and supple, with limestone abrasion at the service of its style. That style feels very buttoned up and very British—nutty, mature and rich—even as the wine has potential to continue developing.
Magnum. From Pol Roger UK. Tasted blind. Quite spicy on the nose and just a little bready. Quite a bit of grip on the palate, firm, almost chewy but rounded with creamy texture. Crisp acidity and fabulous intensity. Powerful and more red fruited than the previous wine (which turned out to be the 1999 from bottle). 18/20 points. (JH)
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