This delivers wave after wave of piecrust, dried pineapple, warm marmalade, singed almond, glazed peach and apricot flavors, with a hint of brioche. Despite the heft, this has a breezy feel within, thanks to riveting acidity buried deep on the finish. Best from 2020 through 2040. (JM)
One extremely fine lot after another, all marked by an extremely pure lemony botrytis. Bright and crisp, with lovely sweetness and mindboggling precision. Choosing between the various barrels to make the final blend will be even tougher than usual this year. Drink: 2021-2055.
The Château Climens was tasted from several lots that Bérénice Lurton and her team are preparing to blend together during its barrel maturation. Having conducted this practice over many years, I would point out that whereas in some years one has to conjecture to the full, in 2014 the lots were both smaller in number, less heterogeneous and paradoxically, more 'complete'. This made it easier to envisage the final wine. Here, you had to focus on the second trie where 80% of the crop was picked with widespread onset of botrytis. There are fleeting senses of dried honey, juniper berries and marigold, dried apricot on a couple of barrels. There is clearly good acidity here, most of the lots spicier than 2013. As usual, this Climens is bestowed a sense of volume and persistence in the mouth and you have the sense that this will be a more approachable Barsac compared to other vintages. Overall, Bérénice Lurton has a winning Climens on her hands, one that will in the top two or three sweet wines of the vintage. (NM)
RS 141 g/l. Lovely super-concentrated lemon purity on the nose and cool and pure on the palate with lemon, grapefruit and pear and just a very fine grain to enhance the existing freshness. Then a touch of almonds on the finish. So elegant, long and pure. Masses of pleasure already. 18.5/20 points. (JH)
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