Winning highest honors among the splendid new lot of Williams Selyem Pinots for its vibrancy and textbook varietal precision, the winery's best-ever offering from the Hirsch Vineyard marries classic, very pure, ripe cherry fruit with a deft touch of sweet oak and wispy hints of dried flowers. Although bright and balanced to firmness, it exhibits a little more fruity richness than other vintners manage to coax from this very cool site, and the wine's firm spry spine is always an integral piece. It is a Pinot Noir that is guaranteed to grow with age even if there is nothing about it that dissuades drinking now, and we would not be surprised in the least if it continues to improve even as its tenth birthday nears.
The 2014 Pinot Noir Hirsch Vineyard is arguably the most reticent wine in this range. Still raw and not fully formed, the Hirsch only hints at its ultimate potential. The sensual aromatics typical of this site only emerge with quite a bit of time in the glass, but more generally, the elements need time to come together. Today, the Hirsch is a bit compact and folded in on itself, while the oak is prominent. Still, the wine's persistence and silky tannins bode well for the future. There is certainly plenty to look forward to. 94+ (AG)
There is a background hint of reduction that is just enough to shave the top notes from the otherwise well-layered red and dark pinot fruit aromas that are liberally laced with both spice and floral nuances; if you're going to try a bottle upon release, I would advise allowing this 30 minutes or so in a decanter. There is excellent volume and in particular mid-palate concentration to the rich and velvet-textured flavors that coat the palate with dry extract that also serves to buffer the moderately firm tannic spine shaping the impressively long if mildly austere finale where a hint of asperity appears. Like several of the wines in the range this built-to-age effort needs to develop more depth but everything appears to be in place such that this eventuality will likely occur.
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