Vivid ruby-red. Complex aromas of ripe red and blue fruits, candied rose, cola and oak spices. Sweet and broad on the palate, offering juicy black raspberry, boysenberry and spicecake flavors that are given spine and sharpened by a jolt of zesty acidity. Round, even tannins shape the sweet, velvety finish, which hangs on with impressive tenacity. Doug Tunnel is an organic and biodynamic farming pioneer in Oregon, having achieved organic status in 1990 and Demeter certification in 2005. He lives on the 40-acre property, which is planted to just under 29 acres of vines, and his cozy winery, a former horse barn with much of the original tack still in place, is literally out the back door of his home. Tunnel produces a little under 4,000 cases a year, on average, of elegant, precise, Old World-inspired wines that are made with a good amount of whole clusters, native yeasts and no fining or filtration before bottling... The 2014s here are, as one might expect, more powerful expressions of Pinot than usual, but they stop short of overt ripeness. While their fruit is definitely to the fore, I also find the requisite balance to reward a decade or so of patience and I might be underestimating their capacity to age. (JR)
*Editors' Choice* What differentiates this offering is the block selection-all Pommard clone-and a higher (30%) proportion of new cooperage. Warm and generous fruit flavors bring strawberry and cherry in a lushly textured wine that refreshes as it delights. The finish adds extended notes of lemon custard, orange flan and a lick of caramel. (PG)
Lithe, supple and expressive, layered with cherry, cinnamon and floral flavors that come together seamlessly on the long, elegant, mineral-accented finish. Drink now through 2022. (HS)
The 2014 Cuvée du Tonnelier Pinot Noir is a barrel selection from a Pommard clone block matured in around 30% new oak. It has a very earthy, slightly stemmy bouquet that has a touch of green pepper underlying the well-defined red berry fruit. The palate is fresh and clean, peppery in the mouth with crisp, fine tannin, a keen line of acidity and a foursquare but fresh finish that is very satisfying. Not one for those seeking plenty of juicy fruit, but a classy wine for sure. (NM)
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