(35% oak; still a touch of malic remaining; one-third of this wine is from a 2006 planting, one-third is from 40-year-old vines and one-third 50): Pale, green-tinged yellow. Very subtle aromas of fresh apple, hazelnut and powdered stone complicated by dried fruits, bitter almond and fresh herbs; shows a positive greenness. Quite dense and rich but remarkably weightless considering its superb breadth. Finishes very long and brisk, with dusty minerality and classic Chablis bitterness. The very small yield here brought more aromatic complexity than volume, noted Mangenot. (ST)
There is some post-bottling sulfur on the otherwise attractive nose that offers up notes of honeysuckle, mineral reduction and oyster shell hints. As is typically the case the broad-shouldered flavors are bigger, richer and more powerful if not finer while delivering terrific punch on the explosively persistent and palate coating finale. This too will require a few years of cellaring to find its center but it is certainly extremely impressive. Drink: 2022+
Superb ripeness and fragrance, great citrus fruit clarity and a weighty but gentle palate. Crunchy, intense, tight. 17.5/20 points. (RH)
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