The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques comes from five parcels spread from the bottom to the top. It is matured in 70% new oak with 20% whole bunches. It has wonderful clarity and detail on the nose: a mixture of black and red fruit, cold stone, hints of violet and blood orange. The palate is extremely well balanced, fleshy and generous with layers of raspberry, strawberry, brown spices and a touch of tobacco towards the finish. There is tremendous weight and focus here with a very persistent finish. This is superb Lavaux Saint-Jacques. It is not a question of whether Arnaud Mortet's 2015 Burgundies kicked arse...but how much. I was totally blown away by these wines that represent the best ever from the domaine. It is not so much a case of a stellar 100-pointers. Perhaps I was anticipating a score in that rarefied air as I approached the grand crus, and they were not quite there. Rather, it is the consistency amongst the village and premier crus that punched well above their wait, forcing me to give scores that might raise a few eyebrows amongst those in the misguided belief that all Burgundy wines adhere to the hierarchy: generic < village < premier < grand cru. These were thrilling wines that sent tingles of pleasure down my spine. (NM)
Here the wood treatment is more pronounced though not so much as to stifle the markedly earthy and again notably floral-scented nose of black raspberry liqueur and plum aromas. There is excellent size, weight and richness to the big-bodied and intensely mineral-driven flavors that brim with dry extract before exploding on the wonderfully persistent finish where the wood resurfaces. Like the Champeaux this should be approachable after 7 to 8 years yet if you want to see it at its peak, it will need at least 15 years.
(30% vendange entier; 60% new oak): Deep, bright red-ruby. Captivating, nuanced nose offers scents of black raspberry, licorice pastille, mocha, menthol and spices; comes across as darker and wilder than the Champeaux. Then sharply focused and very intensely flavored but more more backward and less fruity than the Champeaux. Most impressive today on the very long, rising back end, which features gripping tannins, an obvious chocolatey oak element and a note of saline minerality. (ST)
Really very alluring and beautifully sweet and nicely balanced. Very gorgeous indeed. Long. Neat. 17.5+/20 points
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