The 2015 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques comes from five parcels spread from the bottom to the top. It is matured in 70% new oak with 20% whole bunches. It has wonderful clarity and detail on the nose: a mixture of black and red fruit, cold stone, hints of violet and blood orange. The palate is extremely well balanced, fleshy and generous with layers of raspberry, strawberry, brown spices and a touch of tobacco towards the finish. There is tremendous weight and focus here with a very persistent finish. This is superb Lavaux Saint-Jacques. It is not a question of whether Arnaud Mortet's 2015 Burgundies kicked arse...but how much. I was totally blown away by these wines that represent the best ever from the domaine. It is not so much a case of a stellar 100-pointers. Perhaps I was anticipating a score in that rarefied air as I approached the grand crus, and they were not quite there. Rather, it is the consistency amongst the village and premier crus that punched well above their wait, forcing me to give scores that might raise a few eyebrows amongst those in the misguided belief that all Burgundy wines adhere to the hierarchy: generic < village < premier < grand cru. These were thrilling wines that sent tingles of pleasure down my spine. (NM)
(from 5 different parcels situated all over the appellation that total 1.17 ha; 35% whole cluster). Markedly earthy and notably floral-scented aromas of black raspberry liqueur and plum are abundantly laced with sauvage and humus elements. There is excellent size, weight and richness to the big-bodied and intensely mineral-driven flavors that brim with dry extract before exploding on the wonderfully persistent finish where a hint of wood surfaces. Like the Champeaux this should be approachable after 7 to 8 years yet if you want to see it at its peak, it will need at least 12 to 15 years. 2027+
Good dark red. Much more reticent on the nose than the glorious Champeaux but already with superb incipient complexity to its aromas of black raspberry, licorice, silex and game. Fat and rich on entry, then quite backward in the middle and not at all in a sweet phase today. In fact, this is much tighter and stricter than the Champeaux and Mes Cinq Terroirs--and seemingly more marked by its oak component in the early going. Best right now on the palate-staining back end, which shows strong medicinal reserve and supporting mineral spine. This powerful, brooding, youthfully medicinal wine may well outperform the Champeaux in the long run; I hope to be alive then. 92+ points. (ST)
Really very alluring and beautifully sweet and nicely balanced. Very gorgeous indeed. Long. Neat. 17.5+/20 points
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