A faintly yeasty aromatic overlay is entirely pleasant. Fresh lime and grapefruit are pungently scented, brightly juicy, and tinged with mouthwatering salinity on a tangy, animating finish. There is an impressive sense of sheer stuffing here – reinforced by Busch’s usual long lees exposure and late bottling – that in no way inhibits refreshment. Yet at just 10.5 percent alcohol, the wine is delightfully buoyant, and unusually so for a legally trocken bottling. This was picked soon after the September rains let up, and Rita Busch suggested that its alcoholic levity is probably partly due to beneficial dilution. All I can say is, you can’t ask for much more fun from an “intro-level” dry Riesling! (DS)
The 2015 Riesling Trocken has a clear, fresh and open bouquet followed by a refreshingly pure and piquant, nicely juicy and charmingly fruity palate. This wine was bottled at the end of September with 58 milligrams of sulfur (total) and just 10.4% alcohol. (SR)
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2015 Karthäuserhof Eitelsbacher Karthäuserhofberg Kabinett Riesling Ruwer (Elsewhere $27)