As usual, this bottling is informed largely by younger vines in Ott’s three top sites. A faintly cider-like spicy and tangy expression of apple is already evident in the nose, along with peony-like musky floral perfume and ocean spray. Subtly caramelized parsnip joins apple on the palate for a fascinating and by no means inharmonious interchange of sweet and pungent, fruit and root vegetable flavors. While less nuanced and enticing today than the corresponding Fass 4 bottling, this offers a striking combination of richness with buoyancy (at 12.8% alcohol) and refreshment, finishing with sustained stimulating complexity. (DS)
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2013 Birgit Eichinger Heiligenstein Reserve Riesling Erste Lage Kamptal (Previously $30)