(a monopole that measures 2.15 ha). There is enough reduction to push the underlying fruit to the background for today. The graceful yet precise flavors brim with both underlying tension and minerality and possess that beguiling quality of inner mouth perfume before delivering the best length in the range on the youthfully austere finale. This is very clearly built-to-age and it’s going to need it; indeed I doubt that this will arrive at its peak much before it sees its 20th birthday. I would further observe that while this may not be the finest Ducster of the modern era, it should ultimately give both the 1999 and 2005 a run for their money, which indisputably puts it in elite company. (93-96)/2032+
The 2015 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs needed a little encouragement from the glass and even so, a small fug of reduction remained. However, underneath lay very intense blackberry and raspberry fruit mixed with orange sorbet and even a touch of honey. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. This has more grip and backbone than the other Volnays from d'Angerville, as one would expect given the vineyard, but it easily boasts the most precision on the finish. The class really shows through in this wine and the persistence is outstanding. I expect it to land at the top of my banded score once in bottle. (NM)
Good medium ruby. Restrained but very pure scents of black fruits, licorice and cocoa powder. Compellingly silky and seamless wine, hinting at an almost chocolatey ripeness but extremely closed today. This extremely complex, refined wine shows more inner-mouth lift than the Champans and finishes with outstanding, slowly rising length, the utterly suave, glossy tannins arriving late. Like a millefeuille in its velvety texture, sweetness and crunchiness. Leaves the salivary glands humming. (ST)
Reserved dark fruit, forest floor, spice, soil and chocolate, framed by a hint of new oak. Taut and ageworthy, with tangy acidity and ripe tannins. Drink 2025-2055.
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